Horenstein "Film Exposure" Questions and Comments
Respond to reading by posting 3 questions and 3 bullet point comments to your blog.
Questions:
- How can highlights be dark?
- Is there a difference between shutter speed and exposure speed?
- If using a spot meter, how can you make sure to get proper exposure of all subjects in the image if it only focuses on one portion of the picture?
- Why use meters if they only show "middle gray" ?
- What is the advantage of using a gray card?
Comments:
- Smaller aperture provides less light to the object, so use a smaller aperture on bright objects. This means that you want the f/stop number to be larger.
- Each f/stop number represents a halving or doubling of the amount of light be letting through.
- Shutter speeds should be slower for dimly lit subjects because more time is needed to let light reach the film.
- Use fast film (higher ASA) in dimly lit lighting to capture the light that is available (more dense).
- Medium speed film is best for general outdoor use.
- F/stop and shutter speed have a reciprocal relationship.
- Adjust them to reach equivalent exposure.
- Choice of exposure is trade-off between max. depth of field and min. image blur
- Use incident light readings on bright days (too much light will be reflected back if using reflection reading).
- If the negative is too dense/dark, the image will be too bright (the print will be very white due to overexposure.
- Overexposure in film print has opposite effect from that in photograms photogram too dark if overexposed).
- Low light:
- Fast film
- Wide aperture (lower f/stop)
- Slower shutter speed
- It seems like the meter is never accurate, and it would almost be easier to test out the exposures using different settings on your own.
- This might result in a lot of wasted film, though!
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