Horenstein "Film Exposure" Questions and Comments



Respond to reading by posting 3 questions and 3 bullet point comments to your blog.


Questions:
  1. How can highlights be dark?
  2. Is there a difference between shutter speed and exposure speed?
  3. If using a spot meter, how can you make sure to get proper exposure of all subjects in the image if it only focuses on one portion of the picture?
  4. Why use meters if they only show "middle gray" ? 
  5. What is the advantage of using a gray card? 
Comments:
  1. Smaller aperture provides less light to the object, so use a smaller aperture on bright objects. This means that you want the f/stop number to be larger. 
    1. Each f/stop number represents a halving or doubling of the amount of light be letting through. 
  2. Shutter speeds should be slower for dimly lit subjects because more time is needed to let light reach the film.
  3. Use fast film (higher ASA) in dimly lit lighting to capture the light that is available (more dense). 
    1. Medium speed film is best for general outdoor use.
  4. F/stop and shutter speed have a reciprocal relationship.
    1. Adjust them to reach equivalent exposure.
    2. Choice of exposure is trade-off between max. depth of field and min. image blur
  5. Use incident light readings on bright days (too much light will be reflected back if using reflection reading).
  6. If the negative is too dense/dark, the image will be too bright (the print will be very white due to overexposure. 
    1. Overexposure in film print has opposite effect from that in photograms photogram too dark if overexposed).
  7. Low light:
    1. Fast film
    2. Wide aperture (lower f/stop)
    3. Slower shutter speed
  8. It seems like the meter is never accurate, and it would almost be easier to test out the exposures using different settings on your own.
    1. This might result in a lot of wasted film, though!

Comments

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